Walnut Rice Bowl # 449
Piece #449 – Walnut – 5″ by 3″ – SOLD
The character in this little rice bowl in nothing short of spectacular.
This bud vase has a glass test tube insert for water. Bring on your favorite live buds.
This oak bowl was born plain and characterless. It cried out for some pizzazz. I treated the inside with a solution of tannic acid and water. I let that cure overnight. Next iron water was brushed on over the tannin. Because of the capillary action of the wood fibers the tannin had been absorbed deep into the wood where it intensified the natural tannin found in oak. The iron water reacted with the tannin changing the wood fiber black. Instant ebony look.
I put two coats of a nice hard varnish on the outside of the bowl, letting each one cure really well. The next step was adding the Dutch Metal leaf and letting the leaf set over night. The chemical patina was applied and once it had the affect I was looking for I rinsed it off and patted it dry. I put the piece aside for three days. I applied 2 coats of Behlen’s Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish, sanding between coats. Last step was a trip back to the Lathe and the Beall Buffing System.
Roger Dale Scott
WoodPops
The 3D curls running through this piece are quite striking.
Roger Dale Scott
Woodpops
Thanks Sheila and Ron.
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My neighbor from down the street gave me this elm last year (2013). This bowl has a very light orange tint on the inside. Then the wood was sealed with a 1 lb. cut of dewaxed shellac. The final finish on the inside is Salad Bowl Finish (food safe). The outside was sealed with varnish to give it a nice hard base for the copper leaf. Go to https://woodpops.com/about-2/gilding-with-patina-finish/ to see my process for adding leaf. Also at https://woodpops.com/gallery/greek-urn/. If you look closely you can see a knot hole that was filled in with calcite crystals. The chemical patina on the copper leaf is orange and compliments the dye tint on the inside. This is a great little bowl.
Roger Dale Scott
Woodpops
This spring I drove up to Baghdad Lumber to pick up the poplar for my new show display shelves. Cal found this ash burl in the back cut-off room. It’s more of a wana-be burl than a full grown burl. However, it has some really interesting character. The rose colored calcite enhances some of the colors running through the burl. It’s a nice piece.
Roger Dale Scott
Woodpops
This piece of wood came from Florida. A storm took it down in 2009. I got a lot of it! At the time I thought it was a nasty species. It is almost caustic. I have to take special precautions when I turn it. Now that is has dried out really well it has spectacular character. I only have a couple pieces left. I have made some nice pieces out of it through the years. I will be sorry when I use my last piece.
I turned this piece sometime in 2011. Because it had no grain or character I painted it with black lacquer. It sat on my office shelf until May, 2014 when I decided to spiff it up. I applied copper leaf and a chemical patina to the rim and inside. It is too shallow and the bottom is too broad to call it a bowl. The copper is shiny hence the name “Flash in the Pan”.
This spalted sycamore vase is carved and pierced with images of autumn leaves. It is air brushed with translucent colors and the veins are burned in with my wood burning tool. It has a satin lacquer finish on the outside and a hard varnish finish on the inside.
This walnut bowl has five coats of milk paint. The first two are red. The third is blue and the last two are red. I have scuffed through them in a couple of places to make the bowl look old.
Autumn Splendor is made on the wood lathe from a piece of specimen Sycamore. The tree blew down in the Spring storm of 2011 at Knoxville, TN. The shape was turned on the lath about 1″ thick at the base and about 5/8″ thick where the leaves start. The piece was sanded to 220 grit sealed with shellac. The leaves were then penciled in.
The next step was to cut the edges of the leaves around the outside of the rim. Then I made a relief cut around the inside edges of the leaves at the bottom of the bowl. Piercing the negative spaces between the leaves was next. Making the leaves 3 dimensional by relief carving the texture and veins make the look pop. Wood burning the veins with a razor tip completes the wood work.
The leaves were then sealed with a one lb. solution of dewaxed shellac. After curing, each leaf was individually masked with frisket. It was now ready to air brush.
Air brushing the leaves with transparent paint is the secret to realistic, vibrant color. On most leaves I lay down a base coat of yellow. It may vary in shade and amount depending on what color I want to end up with. Next comes the red, orange or green layered on lightly in the areas I want the heavier color. A red leaf has a base coat of pink instead of yellow. The same for the purple leaves. Once the leaf looks good I go back and add a touch of shading grey to create shadows. It is important to remember, “Less is More”.
After the paint cures for several days I apply no less than five coats of satin lacquer from a spray can. Two hours between coats so that I do not have to sand. The display stand is finished with gloss brushing lacquer.
Roger Dale Scott WoodPops
I like natural edge bowls with lots of figure (character). However, this Ash bowl had lots of character but not the kind that looks good. OK. What to do.
At the time I’m making new portable shelves for the art shows planned for this year. They are made from cheap rough cut poplar that I plan to ebonize with the iron water and tannis technique. Why not try it on this bowl?
Turned out pretty darned good. I’m a genius, and modest too.
This piece has had more lives than a cat. It started out as an ordinary oak bowl. But, the top blew out while turning. A maple piece I was working on later, the bottom blew out. Of course I keep all these worthless pieces. So I decide to marry the maple top to the oak bottom. Looked like you know what. Needed something. Black and white calcite inlay to separate the oak from the maple. That works. Okay, still not right. Got it – turn the oak black with Iron Water ebony technique. Looks awesome.
Now we just cut off the tenon that’s gripped by the chuck and finish it. Right. Cutting the tenon to close left a small hole in the bottom. What a dumb ass! Now what? Make a plug, fill the hole, putty it, sand it. Looks like sh– well you know. Gotta hide it without a tell. Got just the ticket. Apply Copper leaf to the bottom. Use sodium sulfide to put an antique patina on the copper and, Voila Old Oak Pot with Copper Bottom. It’s not about the destination; it’s about the journey.
This large natural edge, Bradford Pear bowl came out really gorgeous – THEN disaster. It checked! My muse said it looked like lightning struck it. I seized the idea and widened the checks, flattened them, stabilized the movement and inlaid calcite crystals to look like lightning bolts. WOW! It looks marvelous. And that is why all artists need a muse. Thank you Carolyn.
This piece developed wings over time. No pun intended. I sliced a Bradford tree limb into about four flat pieces. The idea was to make small hor d’oeuvres trays. That never panned out. I put this piece on the lathe and gave it a slight concave shape. Then I cut the circle groove for mineral inlay. I lost interest and set it aside. It was a dust collector for about two years. When I got the idea for “Rose Among Thorns” Piece #427, I needed to try out the 3D carving effect. I saw the Bradford Pear on the shelf, grabbed a pencil and sketched the tree sprigs around the circle I had made. An idea was born. One thing led to another. The Damsel Fly is a species of dragon fly. Did you catch the play on words? (Damsel in Distress)
This is a collaboration of my son Chris and myself. He did the cardinal in oil paint. I turned the vase, inlaid the top and bottom with calcite and pierced and textured the piece. It is very unusual.